Northwest Passage Expedition – daily update 10 August 2024

Another quiet day today. I shaved (still more work to do, but got more than half of the hair off, a little patch here, a little there, without taking too much skin off). Had a good wash. Changed base and mid-layers. Did some laundry. Read up some more on the camera. Paid two bills. Did some admin.

MIKE’S MAGNIFICENT MANUSCRIPT

Most importantly I read more of Mike’s manuscript. I still can’t believe we’ve got such a world-class writer on board. We half-jokingly agreed that Mike will just write some fancy poem about our expedition and let me do whatever the heck I’m doing with pen and paper.

COLIN NOT KEEN ON CARNIVORES

A chap called Colin, presumably an Inuit hunter, left an interesting comment on the news article about the latest deadly polar bear attack:

While in some other areas outside of Nunavut the population of bears might not be a problem, but here in Nunavut we have never had so many polar bears before.

The numbers seem to be increasing each year for more than two decades now, we see a lot of teenage bears coming into town more, those are the dangerous one as they are very curious and less afraid of people.”

“But out on the land there are some big bears that will stalk you for food. In many areas around Nunavut we can’t sleep in tents anymore, where we used to be able to sleep in tent, but today it’s just too dangerous, we have attacks and deaths almost every year in Nunavut.”

“We may want to start looking at the population of polar bears closer and see what we can do to help protect ourselves more as the number of bears are at its highest amount ever recorded. It’s getting very dangerous especially in certain parts of Nunavut where bear population are above what they were historically.”

POTENTIAL POLAR BEAR OVER POPULATION ACCORDING TO COLIN

First time I hear someone complain about or even only mention a potential polar bear over-population and the fact that some bears out there are rather large and presumably healthy, but do stalk humans as prey. Will have to do more research about this. Usually it is the injured, sick, or old bears that are considered the biggest risk to humans. Unable to catch their usual prey, they resort to humans and other, easy-to-catch food. A healthy polar bear will prefer a seal or whale over human flesh ten out of ten times, we are told.

ANOTHER CHANGE IN WEATHER FORECAST – NOW EXPECTING TO LEAVE SUNDAY NIGHT

Oh.. and the weather forecast has changed again. Within a short 24h it had gone from All-looking-good-for-Tuesday-tailwinds-here-we-come to The-Universe-hates-us-shall-we-call-it-all-off-nothing-makes-sense-anymore to now Somewhat-half-decent-weather-now-and-then-from Sunday-night. We are hoping to start around 11pm or midnight, then row for 6 hours or so to the next anchoring site, then on and off at weird hours over the next five days with occasional forced longer waits.

TEN MILES A DAY IS BETTER THAN NOTHING

Even just rowing for a few hours a day making barely 2 knots would be a blessing, compared with wasting yet another day more in Wellington Bay. We all want to make some progress, even if it’s 10 not 60 miles a day.

 

NAUTICAL MILES

For the avoidance of doubt, when unqualified, unless context suggests otherwise, miles always refer to Nautical miles, i.e. roughly 1.8 rather than 1.6km. Fingers crossed the forecast doesn’t change for the worse until departure time.

GEESE AND FOX

Spotted some geese on land and a shifty little fox. The local variety is so much skinnier than the urban foxes in the Big Smoke who feed on discarded leftovers of chicken nuggets and meatfest pizza. Arctic foxes around here look like a little gust of wind could easily turn them airborne.

FOREST FIRES

Talking smoke, the fallout from the forest fires has gone a lot worse here, hundreds of miles away, thickening the air and colouring the sky. I can’t imagine what it must be like in the cities and towns close to the fires. Nightmare. It seems strange to me that with all the progress in technology we can’t seem to stop comparatively simple forest fires.

LONGER, DARKER NIGHTS – ALMOST LIKE THE REAL THING

The nights now last for more than an hour and are a lot darker than before, almost feeling a bit like a proper night. The predicted heat wave totally missed the memo. It was close to freezing at night and is now 8C feeling like 4C with wind chill. Those Arctic weather forecasts are even more of a joke than the ones back in Old Blighty, geesh.

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